I was looking to do some general maintenace and pre-emptive parts replacement vacuum hoses and such on my '97 A3 this weekend. When I took a look at the intake manifold I decided it was time to clean that bugger out again, so I removed it second cleaning -- car only has about 95k miles on it. Since I was already poking around and had never really investigated my turbo directly, I decided to attach my Mity-Vac to the wastegate actuator and check its range of motion.
Applied 25 lbs of pressure no leakage in the actuator and it didn't budge. Wastegate must be totally gummed up and stuck, right? This is when I discover the design and function of the wastegate on my Garrett turbo operates in a reverse fashion from most designs! Exhaust pressure from a running engine actually opens the wastegate and the actuator works to close it when vacuum is applied.
In other words: With the car off I could have applied increasing pressure until the acuator imploded and the wastegate arm wouldn't have budged. Oh well, live and learn. May as well take a shot at cleaning out the turbo with the Easy-Off method that's all over the forums, even though the turbo is actually off the car. Now here are my questions. First, is it dumb to try to clean the turbo? It has some carbon build-up on the exhaust side and sludgy build-up on the intake side, but it seems to rotate okay.
Second, regarding the various nuts on the exhaust mani and downpipe: I understand all these nuts are single use, so I need to replace them. I have: 8 locking style nuts with a lateral groove cut into the side of the nut near the top with 12mm heads, look like steel, used with spacers for the exhaust manifold. On the web, none of the recommened nuts have that lateral groove but are all made of copper.
Do I need to worry about the fact the style is different or are they just two ways of accomplishing the same goal?
How To: Make Sure Your Turbo Runs Forever
Can I go with copper nuts in all instances? Third, regarding the gaskets used on the EGR cooler pipes, most are metal -- can they be safely re-used? And, I noted that in one case the cooler pipe had both a fiber gasket and a metal one. Is that normal? Fourth, the cooler pipe that attaches directly to the exhaust manifold had no gasket! Is that supposed to be the case? I am wondering if the fiber gasket was meant to go there, and was installed on the wrong fitting when the engine was manufactured.
Finally, I am having a hard time locating a new gasket for the outlet oil line on the underside of the turbo -- and suggestions? Apologies for the lengthy post -- I appreciate any help! First, ignore what I wrote about how the Garrett turbo functions -- it's a completely standard design.
I happened across a lengthy description on another site about turbo design and I just got a little confused I did end up using Easy-Off for cold oven cleaning on both the inlet and outlet to de-carbonize the turbo a bit -- worked like a charm. I also used some Pyroil engine flush to soak and clean the oil channel as well.
Second, I used copper nuts with 12mm heads all the way around. Third, new gaskets for every connection. I had to cut a new gasket for the oil outlet on the turbo as I couldn't find one to buy.
The only scary moment was when I was trying to restart the engine: I must have been careless and knocked some carbon chunks into the motor which then made it through to the turbo, blocking off the exhaust path. After running only briefly the car died and then acted like it was vapor locked -- it would not start and made a sound I never wish to hear again. I ran a long length of wire around the wastegate actuator and, standing at the driver side fender, pullled it open while my wife turned the engine over.
It kicked a bunch of carbon out the tail pipe and started right up I probably got lucky, but I'll take it!At low rpm, restriction in the exhaust side i. At high rpm, all restriction is removed and you get the impression that a much larger turbo is feeding the engine.
By no means did the diesel truck segment introduce the world to variable geometry turbo VGT technology, but when it debuted in aboard the best-selling Ford Super Duty, it was brought to the masses. Despite surrendering 1. And when combined with the new, valve cylinder heads and higher pressure HEUI injection system, the 6. Then, with the unveiling of the 6. Read on as we explain the ins and outs of VGT failure, how you can avoid it, the best way to fix it and why fixed geometry turbochargers are making a comeback.
It has the ability to help meet stringent emissions standards and the capability of doubling as an exhaust brake, but they have several key weaknesses. Stuck vanes are one of the biggest problems experienced with VGT turbochargers. When soot, carbon, rust and other forms of corrosion build up in the turbine housing, it can cause the vanes that direct exhaust gasses across the turbine wheel to seize up.
Light-throttle and easy, steady-state driving typically causes vanes to stick, but any higher mileage turbo ,plus miles is at risk of vane seizure. Believe it or not, some turbos can come out of it if driven hard, but more often than not the turbo either needs to be pulled and cleaned, or completely replaced. Symptom: No response at low rpm or extreme response at low rpm depending on what position the vanes become bound up in. Fix: Clean exhaust side of turbo, replace turbo, or switch to a fixed geometry unit.
This is one of the single most problematic VGT turbos you will ever encounter. The unison ring controls the movement of the exhaust vanes and remember, the vanes are what direct exhaust gasses across the turbine wheel. With rust buildup and soot and carbon present, it causes the unison ring to bind, which in effect means the vanes can no longer route exhaust gasses appropriately. Better yet, a 6. While vacuum actuation is one method of variable geometry functionality, all turbochargers used in the pickup segment are electronically controlled, mechanically actuated units.
This also means that both the electrical side and the mechanical side can fail. Mechanically, the actuator is susceptible to soot and carbon buildup hindering its performance and this type of issue is more common on engines equipped with exhaust gas recirculation EGR. However, outright actuator failure is more common on the 6.
The Holset HEVE shown above can act as small as a charger with a tight, 9cm turbine housing for bottom end response, or as big as a charger with a loose, 26cm turbine housing for great top-end flow.When was the last time you gave your turbo some TLC?
If you took more than a few seconds to answer that question, maybe the time is now to show it some love. Turbocharged engines punch far above their weight, developing substantially more horsepower than naturally aspirated engines of similar displacement. They do this by pumping combustion air into the cylinders rather than relying on the engine to draw it in.
This forces more oxygen into each cylinder charge, which supports more fuel burn, and more fuel burn produces more power from the same cylinders. Consequently, a smaller, lighter, more fuel-efficient turbo engine can replace a larger, heavier, natural motor with the same horsepower rating.td5 wastegate sticky?
T-bolt clamps on both turbine right and compressor left facilitate removal and cleaning. But for the majority of skippers, the biggest turbo-related negative is that the darn thing is simply another component to break down, and it needs a little TLC once in a while. Nothing onerous, though. Get your manual out and turn to those pages now. Exhaust gas passes through the turbine, setting it spinning.
Turbochargers run hot, so cooling the intake air via an intercooler makes it pack more of a punch. Pretty simple, really. Every turbocharger has a wastegate—a pressure-actuated port in the turbine housing that allows exhaust to exit directly without passing through the turbine.
Without a wastegate, the boost pressure could rise high enough to damage the engine. When the boost pressure exceeds a pre-set limit, an actuator pushes on a connecting rod to open the wastegate; when the pressure drops, a spring inside the actuator closes the gate.
A bypass valve does the same thing on the charger side, reducing excessive boost by diverting pressurized air back into the intake ahead of the turbo. Some turbos have a blow-off valve that releases the excess pressure into the air. If either sticks closed, it can damage the engine, maybe even kill it. Keeping the turbo clean will usually prevent such dire possibilities. Water mixed with a little dish soap is sprayed into this air cleaner.
Going slowly is key. Traditional turbos use fixed turbine rotors; newfangled variable geometry turbos have movable turbine vanes that automatically adjust to match the exhaust flow. The vanes can be mechanically controlled by a pressure-sensitive actuator, similar to a conventional wastegate, or by an electronic control unit.Select Year. Select Make. Select Model.
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Select Part. Select Fitment. A turbocharger wastegate is a small valve, which is used to control the amount of boost the turbo makes. It opens at a predetermined limit, to allow surplus exhaust gas to bypass the turbine and disappear straight down the exhaust pipe once the boost limit is reached.
Most engines can handle a small amount of additional boost but the temptation is to keep going, as it's relatively easy power.
But there is only so much boost that a turbo can produce. For a given turbo, the boost pressure is dependent in the amount of exhaust gas going through the turbine. This is controlled by a small valve, known as the wastegate. This opens at a pre-determined limit to allow surplus exhaust gas to bypass the turbine and disappear straight down the exhaust pipe once the boost limit is reached.
Normally, a wastegate will have a spring on one side of the diaphragm and boost pressure on the other side. At the point where boost exerts force greater than the spring pressure, the gate opens to bleed off the exhaust gases.
Reducing the pressure seen by the wastegate or increasing the strength of the spring will make the wastegate open at higher boost pressure hence the engine will get more boost and power. However, the limit to this is what the turbo can handle, both physically and from the air flow point of view. If too much exhaust gas is sent through the turbine, the unit can over-speed, which puts mechanical stresses on it and can lead to all sorts of problems, such as breaking shafts or compressor wheels failing.
In Addition, the air flowing into the engine can start to get very unpredictable, a situation known as "surge". This can have very detrimental effects on the engine's internals and power delivery. The solution is to tailor the turbo itself to the requirements, and if necessary replace a standard version with one designed for the job.
This can be a physically bigger turbo or a different turbine and compressor characteristics. There are two types of wastegates the first one is an internal wastegate. An internal wastegate is a component on the turbo itself. The gate is opened via an actuator which is a diaphragm type system. Excess exhaust is then fed directly into the exhaust system.The common turbocharger wastegate would seem like the height of simplicity, but high performance can add complications.
A wastegate is essentially a device that bypasses some exhaust flow around the turbine section of a turbocharger to control maximum boost. A wastegate is usually controlled by a pressure actuator that is connected to manifold pressure. The wastegate is normally closed, held shut by a spring inside the actuator canister. When preset pressure limits are exceeded, the actuator progressively opens the wastegate, allowing exhaust flow to bypass the turbine, thus regulating manifold boost pressure.
On the surface, it sounds like a simple premise, and in fact, a wastegate is a simple device. The problem comes from the pressure in the exhaust system, called turbine inlet pressure that can bear against the valve, overpowering the spring in the actuator, and forcing the wastegate open at lower than intended boost levels. Original equipment turbocharger wastegate actuators are selected or engineered for a specified boost level and turbine inlet pressure.
To keep costs down, such actuators are usually just big enough to do the job at the stock boost levels. If the turbocharger boost is increased for additional airflow and performance, the stock wastegate actuator is frequently incapable of holding the wastegate fully closed until the higher boost level is reached. This happens because turbine inlet pressure also increases as boost pressure rises.
The fix is to use a bigger spring in the wastegate actuator to hold it closed until the desired peak boost is achieved, however, that also requires a bigger actuator diaphragm to override the heavier spring when the desired boost level is reached. We do it right. You must be logged in to post a comment.
October 28, Banks Power 0. Power Parts March 1, Banks Power 0. Leave a Reply Cancel reply You must be logged in to post a comment.Turbocharged vehicles utilize some awesome technology to operate effectively.
Each piece of the puzzle is important for proper operation and performance of the kit. Over time, these pieces are prone to fatigue, wear, and power robbing contaminants that dramatically lower the life expectancy of the component.
Therefore, it is important to take care of these items through regular cleaning. Items that benefit from routine cleaning are:. Blow off Valves typically see more dirt and grime than any of the other components given that they are exposed to the elements. A dirty Blow off Valve will cause turbo "flutter" which not only sounds bad, but can damage the turbocharger if left unmanaged.
Below, we'll explain the process of blow off valve disassembly and cleaning. First, remove the BOV from your vehicle. This process will vary based on the BOV and vehicle you've got, so we wont go too in-depth on this process. Just be sure to take your time, be careful not to crack any brittle fittings, and make note of everything you remove in the process.
It's also a good idea to take a picture of the engine bay to make sure everything goes back where it's supposed to for reassembly. Not all BOV's are the same, so disassembly may vary based on your unit. Remember, there is a spring under this cap that is compressed, so be sure you're holding onto the BOV tightly. With the cap taken off, remove the spring and piston, then set aside.
If you need help disassembling your BOV, refer to your manufacturer manual, head over to Google, or give us a call for assistance! With all of the components removed from the BOV unit, begin cleaning each item. Use a soft cotton or microfiber cloth and gently clean the piston, BOV housing, and cap. Inspect for any wear or scarring on the piston and inner housing.
Use compressed air and blow out through the vacuum fitting to remove any contaminants. If everything is clean and no scarring is present on the piston or housing, you're ready to reassemble. To re-assemble your BOV, simply reverse the procedure in which you used to disaassemble it.
However, you will want to make sure you lubricate the piston with a non-viscous, multi-purpose lubricant such as Turbosmart Multi-Spray or sewing machine oil. Do not use grease!La solution efficace Carbon Cleaning. Compressed air is one of the principal aspects of a working engine.
This improvement results because the turbine can force more air, and proportionately more fuel, into the combustion chamber than atmospheric pressure alone. Poor fuel atomization leads to the generation of soot, which can clog up the exhaust system. This puts negative pressure on the turbocharger, which inhibits the exhaust and reduces engine power.
In addition to a less powerful engine, the main symptoms of this predicament are faulty engine starts, a noisy turbo, white exhaust smoke, and the over-consumption of oil. The turbocharger is lubricated by oil from the engine. Smooth driving from a cold start is recommended, as long as the engine and engine oil temperature rise. Also important to note: when the engine is shut off, although the oil is no longer flowing, the turbocharger will continue to turn for a short period of time.
To prevent the turbo from turning dry, it is recommended to let the engine run for a while after coming to a final stop. There are two ways to clean your turbocharger, falling within a broad price range. The most expensive option is the outright replacement of the part.
This is what most mechanics will propose. The least expensive optionwith no need for disassembly and entailing the shortest service time, and which is an alternative to part replacement, is hydrogen treatment via the Carbon Cleaning station.
This service works as a preventative treatment, every 15, kilometers, but can also resolve existing problems in the engine. Find a center. Our centers worldwide. With the Carbon Cleaning solution, you can help extend the life of your car engine without the need to replace so many expensive parts. Locate a center near you :. As a member of the Carbon Cleaning network, you are an independent vendor.
To help you grow your business, we put all of our experience and expertise at your disposal. Site map. Our team is available to answer all your questions. Phone : Please send an Email.